Wednesday, September 13, 2006
SORRY TRUMER, BUT YOU’RE STILL A PILS
Some years back there was a local San Francisco-area microbrew I used to patronize called GOLDEN GATE AMBER, from the Golden Gate Brewing Co. Their signature was a tap handle featuring the golden gate bridge, and it not only looked cool, it was one of the best beers available around town. I never got the memo that they’d folded up shop, but earlier this year I learned that the TRUMER BREWERY of Salzburg, Austria, decided to open up shop in America, and purchased the old Golden Gate Brewery building in Berkeley, CA to launch an American version of their signature TRUMER PILS beer. It’s been around for some time now, but as one who generally rejects pilsner-style beers, I never gave it a try. The other night the Hemlock Tavern in San Francisco had it on tap, and I took the plunge. First impressions: I still don’t really like pilsners – at least when there are 47 top-drawer ales to be had within blocks. This one was very crisp and had a real classic taste, but honestly, it didn’t get me much more excited than if you’d pushed a macrobrew in front of me. And the thing is: I want to believe. I want to believe that there are pilsners out there every bit the equivalent of the ales that I (and probably you) revere, but this one was only marginally different than the grainy, light-bodied, uninteresting pilsners I’ve spent half a lifetime trying to get away from. I wanted this to blow the lid off my prejudice, but when it was finally downed, I had to admit I was itching for something very, very different in flavor and feel. Like an Imperial Russian Stout or something. I read an inspiring story about the guys behind this and I’m 100% behind their business plan, but I have to call a duck a duck and admit that I won’t be drinking their beer too often. 4.5/10.
Posted by Jay H. at 9:03 AM